Fit 301

The Fit Check Top 9 List                                   (Okay, so we lied and said Top 10. You'll read it anyway!)

Now you are ready to assess the fit—and your skills as a fitter.

Accessing shoe fit has been broken down into nine basic points. As with other assessments, once you are familiar with the check points, it will go quickly, and you can feel better about getting the best shoe fit possible.

1.         Shoe Length

The first thing to check after putting a shoe on the foot is overall shoe length. The recommended toe room allows 3/8" to 1/2" between the longest toe (which may be the 2^nd or the 3^rd toe instead of the big toe) and the end of the shoe. Many shoes will have a lot of taper in this area, so be sure that there is enough room and the toes are not hitting the end of the shoe. People will sometimes complain that they do not need that end space, but it is needed because the end is usually flexible and will probably elongate. Also, the foot normally moves around some in the shoe, so an allowance is necessary.

Also check to see if there is some space between the 4^th and the 5^th toes and the end of the shoe by feeling the outer part of the shoe. During the foot evaluation, you may find calluses on the ends of the toes. Try to allow space in this area so the toes can lie flat inside the shoe. Crunching up or compressing the toe can cause more pressure on the metatarsal heads, and corns between the toes. Shoes that are too short can influence toe deformities.

big TIP: This is a LENGTH problem not a WIDTH problem!

2.         Heel-to-Ball

The next checkpoint is the heel-to-ball measurement (arch length). The ball of the foot should be positioned in the widest part of the shoe, because this is the widest part of the foot. There is actually an allowance for this part of the foot on most shoes. Run your fingers along the inside of the foot and shoe. Feel the joint and look down to the sole of the shoe. You should be able to see the flare, or widest area. The two should match the part of the shoe called the ball “pocket.” This part of the foot is the main place flexing of the foot occurs, and the shoe is designed to flex at this point.

If the foot is not positioned correctly, excessive wrinkling or crowding of the toes can result, and many things will not work together for foot comfort and health. Think of the shape at the forefoot of a shoe. If the shoe is fit too short or too long, the widest part of the foot will be in a narrower part of the shoe.

big TIP: This is the most important components of shoe fit.

 3.         Ball-to-Toe

The ball-to-toe check is very necessary. You cannot assume the ball-to-toe is right even if overall and heel-to-ball is correct. People can have long or short toes. Extremely long toes may require a last with a longer ball-to-toe dimension, or sometimes a compromise may be necessary. A typical example of a foot that would require a shorter than normal ball-to-toe length would be one with a significant bunion. 

Remember, the toe is angled and is no longer straight, so it actually is shorter in overall length. 

 4.         Ball Width and Vamp Room

 Ball width and vamp room are very similar. It is necessary to check the tightness of the shoes in ball/vamp area in both non weight-bearing and weight-bearing stances.  Feet have a tendency to spread out when bearing weight. Find the ball of the foot while the foot is inside the shoe, put your thumb on it checking for tightness. While holding the foot move your thumb across the vamp and you should be able to pinch a small amount of material.

Run your thumb across the vamp and you find the lateral of the foot so you can assess overall tightness on the outside. The upper material should not be skintight. If it is too tight, the foot will be limited in its ability to flex.  At this checkpoint you also need to see that the insole and the sole fit the bottom of the foot. You want to prevent the foot falling over the sides of the shoe/sole. Even though there seems to be adequate upper material when you check over the vamp, you have not achieved a good fit if you do not have a good arch of foot and insole.

5.         Heel Fit

Heel fit can be a real challenge. Many people think there should be no movement at the heel at all. This comes from their early mis-education when they were younger. A little bit of movement is actually expected. If the heel is too tight, the shoe may be too short or narrow, which could cause blisters.

If there is excessive slippage, the shoe may be too long or too wide. Adjust the size by going either shorter in length or narrower in width. Anklebones are very prone to irritation if they rub on the top of the counter, the inside and outside anklebones are actually different heights, so check in the heel area. Some have padded collars to lessen the slippage.  If the anklebones are rubbing on the shoes top line, an easy solution to the problem could be a heel pad to raise the foot inside the shoe and relieve pressure. Be sure to raise both heels as raising just one could cause other problems.

big TIP:  Knowing about heel slippage and properly flexing the shoe at the breakpoint will a lot of times correct the heel slip problem. If you have a correct fit in the front portion of the foot- you should avoid going smaller in size. Going smaller in size will sacrifice the most important part of the fit, which is the ball of the foot and overall room up front just to get the heel tight. Some slippage is normal and generally will go away as shoe begins to flex with the foot.

6.         Top Line

 The top line of shoes can fit differently when comparing slip-on dress shoes to lace-up oxfords. The top line or top trim of the shoe should fit as snugly as possible to the sides of the foot. You should try for minimum gaping on the side of the foot. With “dress” style of shoes, excessive gaping means improper fit or the wrong pattern/ last for the particular foot. Remember, lasts vary in dress shoes also, and different styles/lasts should be considered.

7.         Instep

The instep check is most important in boot and loafer fittings, when no adjustment over the instep is possible. This area of the shoe must fit snugly to keep the foot positioned properly inside the shoe. Of course, with a laced shoe you have adjustability, but with a non adjustable shoes and boots the fit has to be right initially.

Selection of lasts will be important. Many people with high arches and high insteps will be challenges and, in some cases, may not be able to wear certain styles. Boots may be a problem to even slip on. If the shoe is too tight over the instep, it could even constrict blood flow to the foot. There is not a lot of leeway here. It fits or it doesn’t.

Check for unnecessary tightness at instep. On a thick foot with lots of girth or a foot with a high instep, select laced up footwear, and be sure to suggest the blucher lacing system as it has more freedom for the instep. If fitting a bal lace, the two sides should come fairly close together. If it appears to like a V even when laced properly, it is too tight. Here the trick though, it is the LENGTH not the WIDTH that is the problem.

 8.         Tread

 Now, walk around to check how the shoe treads. Walk in the shoes on a fairly firm surface. You should be able to walk smoothly and as effortlessly as possible. They should not feel unsteady or wobbly, and you should not feel lumps or flat spots in the sole. The shoe will be somewhat stiff at first and perhaps cause some movement on the foot, but the movement should not be excessive. In brief, the shoe should fit securely, feel balanced and stable, and walk comfortably. If it does, you have done a good job. 

9.         Buyer Opinion

Of course, what YOU think is always of utmost importance. Never make the fitting experience a battle between you and your new fit knowledge. If you have been doing a good job EDUCATING yourself throughout this process, then this part should go smoothly.

Want some more? Go on to Fit 401 - The Stories Shoes Tell