The Facts, Just the Facts

Tree Up!  After wearing a pair of shoes all day, moisture will accumulate in the shoe.  In addition, the shoe will have been flexed out of its normal shape during you routine.  As soon as you remove the shoes, place a pair of aromatic, cedar shoetrees in the shoes to retain their shape and absorb the moisture.

Rotate your shoes between wearings.  Even the finest leather or skins need some time to rest and recover.  The best system gives you new shoes 2-3 days rest between wearings.

Always use a shoehorn when slipping into your shoes.  This will keep the heel from losing its stability.

Shine ‘em up!  Be careful not to use the “instant shine” products on your shoes.  These products can compromise the quality of your shoe with their low-grade materials.

Use Creams at home. Always apply a shoe cream that is slightly lighter than the color of the leather.  We recommend Creme of the Crop!

Socks are Cool!  We know the rule in California is to never wear socks except to a wedding and then only if its yours ! But never wear your shoes without socks.  Sweat has acids that affect the lining of the shoes.

Try not to wear your shoes over long distances if they are wet.  The leather will over-stretch and the shape will be compromised. But if they do become wet.....

Drying: Wet full grain leathers will become dry and brittle when exposed to direct heat. Never dry leather next to a direct heat source (fireplace, radiator, etc.). Instead, wipe off excess moisture with a towel and leave shoes in an open area to dry at room temperature. Use shoe trees or boot forms to maintain shape of shoe and prevent cracking and creasing.

Travel Light.  When traveling, pack your shoes in travel bags.  The flannel protects your shoes from scuffs.

Regularly clean and maintain your shoes to keep the leather soft and supple.

Store your shoes in a dry, but not airtight place to prevent the development of mold in the lining of the shoe.

Durability Formula. Proper fit combined with proper rotation, use of shoetrees and proper care equal maximum durability.

Polishing and Cleaning Tips

Calfskin Leather:  To achieve a fine luster, wipe shoes with a damp cloth and allow them to dry at room temperature. Then, apply a coat of shoe cream or polish with a cotton flannel polishing cloth or horsehair dauber and allow to air dry. Remove excess polish by brushing with a horsehair brush and buff to a desired shine and apply edge dressing as needed.

Burnished Calfskin Leather: To remove the slight haze you may notice with a new pair of burnished calfskin shoes, wipe them with a soft cloth or brush with a horsehair brush. Clean regularly with a damp cloth and allow them to air dry. Then, using a soft cloth, apply a medium coat of shoe polish in a suitable color and allow to air dry. Brush with a horsehair brush to remove excess polish and buff using a soft cotton flannel cloth.

Nappa Calf: Since Nappa calf is such a supple skin, it needs special care. Apply a shoe conditioner or cleaner to remove any foreign residue and to restore the leather's natural softness and durability. To maintain maximum luster, match color with your shoe cream or polish and allow to air dry. Remove excess polish and wax by brushing with a horsehair brush and buff to a desired finish.

Exotic Skins:  For skins such as crocodile, alligator, lizard, and snake, first wipe clean with a damp cloth.  Apply reptile cleanser and allow 15 minutes for the treatment to absorb in the hide.  For a high shine, sparingly apply a wax polish and buff with a horsehair brush.  Apply edge dressing as needed.

Shell Cordovan:  This leather is actually from the hide of a horse. Next to sharkskin it is one of the most durable skins you can use for footwear. To remove any residue in areas where the shoe flexes, and to maintain the natural handsome look of the leather, simply brush cordovan footwear with a horsehair brush. Polish occasionally using cordovan shoe cream to maintain a rich color. From time to time, use a black polish to enhance the look of the leather. This leather has a natural reddish color in tone, despite the dyed color of the shoe.  Apply edge dressing as needed.

Suede and Nubuck:  This skin is interesting. It is actually the outside of the hide of the calf. Traditionally, you tan the inside of the hide which has no hair. But for that college prep look, the creators of nubuck turn the hide over and shave down the nap of the hide giving this leather its unique appearance. The leathers are easily cleaned with a nylon brush and a suede/nubuck bar for scuffs. For maximum water protection, we recommend applying a suede protective spray. Make sure you use silicon sprays only! They are the only ones that will preserve the nap and not discolor the leather.

Microfibre: This type of shoe should only be cleaned using a brush or a dry sponge. Do not put any type of polish or cream on this shoe.

Chamois: This one is tough. Occasional applications of chamois oil will protect and rejuvenate this casual leather. This time, though, use a suede brush to remove any dirt or residue and maintain an overall even nap. Avoid using conditioners or cleaners on chamois as they may dry the leather.

Waxed Leather: Clean using a damp cloth to remove any residue. Apply only mink oil or a shoe cream which has been specially formulated for waxed and oiled leathers.  Use a soft flannel cloth rather than a horsehair brush and allow to air dry. Buff waxed leathers gently with a soft cloth to achieve a medium luster.

Chromexcel Leather: This leather is designed for outdoor wear. Apply an "aqua" type cream using a soft flannel cloth and allow to air dry. The leather is lightened or darkened according to wear

Tumbled Leather: Clean using a soft damp cloth to remove dirt and residue. Finish with an application of shoe cream and allow to air dry.

Athletic Leathers:  These leathers are mostly synthetic.  Spray them with athletic shoe wash formula and wipe off while wet.  Follow with a shoe deodorizer to remove odor from fabric-lined shoes.

Patent Leather:  These require a treatment of mild soap and water to remove any residue.  Buff to a brilliant shine using a soft flannel cloth and apply edge dressing.

Bison & Elk Leather: This leather made popular by the HS Trask company, has some slight variations on care compared to common calfskin. A good damp sponging regularly with clean water works well. A little mild soap added to the water can be used in extreme cases. These are safe cleaning methods, but provide no significant preservation. Avoid Neatsfoot oil or Tallow based products as they will harm the leather.

What About a "Spit Shine?"  

So you are either military or old school either way, here is the proper method for a great "spit shine."

1. Spread a thick layer of paste polish over the leather to be spit shined. Allow it to dry for 5 minutes.

2. Wrap a soft, clean cloth around your index finger so you have a smooth area on the end of your finger and dip it in water so it is thoroughly wet but not dripping. Using a wet cloth will stop the fine coats of polish sticking to the cloth and to encourage the polish to stick to the leather. You want to keep on building up thin layers of wax until you have a completely smooth surface that gives the glossy shine.

3. Using a small circular motion, buff the dried polish with the wet cloth until a shine starts to develop. After the first heavy coat of polish you must use minimal amounts of polish to build up the shine. If you use too much polish, the solvent in the polish you are applying will dissolve the base you have already built up and you will have to start again in that area.

4. Then, still using the damp rag on your finger, apply a fine layer of polish in a circular motion and keep on rubbing lightly until a hazy shine develops. Keeping the rag damp, build up the shine with thin layers of polish applied in circles with light pressure until a glossy shine develops.

5. When sufficient shine has developed, use a clean, dry, soft cloth to give it a final buff and remove any last haze.