Shoe Knowledge - Part 2

Materials Used in Shoe Uppers

Leather remains the preferred shoe upper material.  The following qualities make it one of the best components for shoe manufacturing:

Breath ability – Pores in leather permit fresh air into shoes.

Moisture absorbency – Leather absorbs moisture away from the foot and out of the shoe.

Customization – Leather will assume the shape of the wearers’ feet, providing individualized fit.  This quality maximizes comfort and minimizes foot disorders.

Durability – Leather resists tearing and puncturing.

The most commonly used leathers are:

Calfskin - The hides of young cows or calves have fine grain, softness and pliability, plus it has the ability to withstand scuffing and hard wear, combine elegant luxury with practibility.

Exotic leathers – Alligator, lizard, snakeskin, or ostrich, all of these are tanned from the hides and skins of these reptiles and birds.

Kidskin – From goats it is lightweight yet strong and resilient.

Nubuck – A leather finish created by buffing the outer surface of the leather to produce a very fine nap.

Side leather – This is a finish, not a particular type of leather.  It is made by buffing the flesh or underside of the skin (kid, calf, pig or side leather).  

Man made materials and fabrics are also used to make shoe uppers.  The primary families of man made imitation leathers are vinyls and urethanes.  Among the benefits of using man made materials are generally lower materials cost, good looks and easy maintenance.  However, they have two primary disadvantages:

Inability to “breathe “– they don’t absorb and pass off foot moisture;

Memory retention – they return to their original shape after being worn.

big TIP: The use of this manmade material is the main reason a show costs $10 versus $60. So, you Payless fans take note! You're not getting the deal you thought after all.

In some shoes, primarily athletic foot wear, man made material is used in combination with fabrics which do breathe, thus giving breath ability to the shoe.

Shoe Soling Materials

 The selection of soling material by a manufacturer depends on the properties needed for a particular sole.  The desired properties might be wear and durability, flexibility, traction, or insulation.  In some shoes, the soles must be oil resistant, slip resistant, cushioned and/or modified for medical reasons.  Most shoes today have soles made from various compounds, the mix of which depends on the properties needed for the shoe and its functions.  Leather for soles has limited use and is found primarily in higher priced dress shoes and boots.

Other materials used in shoemaking

 There are also a variety of components used in shoemaking that are known by their brand names such as Gore-Tex and Abzorb.  Shoe fitters can get details from manufacturers and should have as much information as possible about the materials and the benefits that the materials offer to their customers.  In today’s Information Age, customers want to know about technology, design, construction, components, soles, linings, waterproofing and other details that can help them select the most appropriate footwear for their needs.  Among the brand name materials are Vibram, Thinsulate, Cordura and Cambrelle, as well as Gore-Tex.  Each of theses companies willingly provides information kits to assist you in selling the value of these components.  Knowing the names of the various parts of the shoe and the materials used in shoe making helps you in selecting the right shoe for your customer and fitting it to his/her foot, and helps assure the customer that you are as interested in the customer’s satisfaction as in making the sale.

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